HomeArticlesFlevoland: Jüngste Provinz der Niederlande | WDR Reisen
Flevoland: Jüngste Provinz der Niederlande | WDR Reisen
August 14, 2019
Beautiful water worlds,
they’re in the Netherlands. Where I’m going to go right now was
about 50 years ago. Discover this new one with us,
man-made nature. Welcome to Flevoland, of the youngest polder landscape
in the Netherlands. The province lies northeast of
Amsterdam at the Marker- and IJsselmeer. What’s new and young, also comes
modern and progressive. Living as in the future. Besides Places
with a centuries-old tradition, the early islands
in the North Sea. Subtitles: WDR mediagroup Ltd.
on behalf of the WDR I’m here in Oostvaardersplassen,
and that’s a real thing. 50 km from Amsterdam,
so in the middle of civilization. there’s supposed to be wilderness here. * Music * The Marker Sea is just like the
IJsselmeer is a large freshwater lake. On its shore
lies Oostvaardersplassen, where I’ve just arrived. Of course I am
I have a date here, too. Hans-Erik Kuypers is Ranger
in the government organization, who were born more than 100 years ago.
founded and the nature reserves
in the Netherlands. Oostvaardersplassen is a
Success story, says Hans-Erik. To 2/3 it is a wet biotope with an enormous
Wealth of fish and bird species. Even birds of prey live here.
and the wild Konikpferde, that were brought here from Poland. We didn’t quite chase them away.
– No, not yet. They’re not quite gone,
but further away. This is really great. I didn’t think I’d come this close to you.
I can get to it, practically under my nose. 100, 200 wild horses. The horses have, Hans-Erik explains,
as the other game the task, to eat the plants off,
so there won’t be a forest. They’re deer. Nah, they’re deer, roe deer and
Deer don’t go well together. Female deer?
– Yes. And these are the male deer. It was a little sensation, than 2006 sea eagle to breed
came here. There used to be
sea eagles passing through, but it was
for the first time since the Middle Ages, that in the Netherlands
a breeding couple settled down again. In 1968, the land here
drained. Originally, the polders were supposed to be
an industrial area will be created. From an industrial area
became a nature reserve.
– Yes, it is. I can’t believe this is
in such a short time. We had a recession back then. and no more need for a
Industrial area at this point. Here was
the lowest point of the polder. It would have cost a lot of money
to drain the land even further. So you didn’t do anything, and it grew
a huge field of reed. It was a total surprise, as nature
developed itself here. * Music * I drive from Oostvaardersplassen
to Lelystad, the capital
of the province of Flevoland. From there I take
a ferry to the Marker Wadden, of a group of islands,
the Dutch are still building. * Music * With the harbour festival
the construction of the dike is celebrated today. One starts directly at Lelystad and separates
the Markermeer of the IJsselmeer. The ferry brings me,
but also a lot of locals, to the Marker Wadden Archipelago,
which have only recently become accessible. * Music * We’re a good half an hour away.
on the way. The Islands
are 12 km from the lake shore. Everybody’s curious,
what it looks like. I’ve been there once. I’m very anxious to see if it’s possible
has already developed, nature. To make new nature,
is something very beautiful. The Dutch are famous for their
and that they build land, where there was water. I think that’s good,
what we do. At the first glance, the island appears to be
like a lunar landscape. For two years, sand from the
of the Marker Sea. All right, look out,
Now I’m breaking new ground. The spell was
has never been more true than it is today. Green nature should be
will soon spread out here. But the Dutch are planning
not just a pure bird island, but also a a huge leisure oasis with
Marina, beach and hiking trails. We like the Marker Wadden, where two years ago.
there was still 4 meters of water left. Now we’re on the first island.
the Marker Wadden. The idea is mine in 2011
not long ago. It was a dream of mine. And a really brilliant idea,
because it solves a problem. The Marker Sea is silting up,
That’s why it’s so cloudy. The mud, which, by the way.
from the surrounding rivers, was piped through
to the new islands. In 2018, the first island was created.
More are to follow. When I heard about this project, I thought
to the Palm Islands in Dubai. You know them, don’t you?
– Yes, I do. Are they similar?
– No, I’m not. Of course you have
new land was also created there, but much simpler. With sand to form land, you’ve heard that in many places.
in the world. Mostly to make money,
to build houses or industries. We, on the other hand.
for nature in particular. I think it’s been a long time.
nowhere else in the world took place in this dimension. Which is very special: We don’t just have sand here,
but built with silt and clay. That’s what we’re going through
I’ve never done that before. Now you wait for the new life,
on plants, birds and fishes and the fact that a
ecological balance. The money for this project came in part.
from a very unusual source. In the Netherlands
we have the postcode lottery with a very special fund,
the dream fund for crazy ideas. You did? Dream fund? The Dream Fund is for truly
big, crazy ideas, that seem impossible at first,
but you think about, it would be wonderful,
if they were to lengthen. So, how’s it going? The first feathered inhabitants
have left their mark. * Music * We’re going back to Lelystad. * Music * Here you can feel it again, that the Dutch
were a seafaring nation. And isn’t she surprised that she’s
gigantic trading galleon Batavia reconstructed in a shipyard,
that’s right next door. With original
old craft techniques. And they keep building. A little like a whale skeleton. That’s supposed to
a fishing ship, as they did centuries ago.
in the North Sea. * Music * Here I can twist a rope?
– Yeah, turn it. I’m Andrea. My name is Rudi Carrell,
and this is the moving tape. Rudi? Finally. If you stand there,
please. All right, let’s get started. Usually that’s hemp.
and is spun. Now we have sisal,
It’s already spun. This is a little easier for us. We’re running this back and forth. And then again. Now, let’s close this up.
Now it’s solid. Okay, now we have to start,
now is work. Please stand here. And with both hands
you have to rotate the device. 40 times, please. 4, 5, 6, 7…
– The 40’s a joke, right? What we’re doing here,
is called “reepen,” by the way. The Reeperbahnen are of course for the real ropes
often hundreds of feet long. Sometimes the workplaces
into streets, like the Hamburg Reeperbahn. We’re almost there. Andrea, homemade,
that’s just a little one. On the Batavia
we need about 20 km. 20 km?
– Yes, it is. This is what we do
here in this way. Thank you very much, sir,
comes in the backpack, of course. Original hand twisted rope. There are others.
traditional workshops here. I’m still looking into the forge. Many employees are volunteers
here, others in social programs. The Batavia shipyard is
which is a charitable foundation. So, I’ve got something nice to do.
for the backpack, a typical dutch
Dishtowel. So that in the kitchen.
I can’t stop thinking about us. Thank you. Thank you.
– Goodbye. Goodbye. Goodbye. I’ll watch the Lord
and I’m going to take another close look at you. The steel colossus comes from the
English sculptor Antony Gormley. He wants to
and the people who have represented themselves with it. Many Lelystädter have
the idea behind this work of art, that someone’s sitting there,
who does his business. * Music * Reminds me of the Eiffel Tower. Really cool
and typical of this region. Huge works of art
in the middle of the countryside. Because it’s so nice and flat here,
you can see them everywhere. E.g. also near Almere, where you can make an
cathedral from trees. Today I start from Lelystad. We’re at the marina, in the northern part of the city.
and therefore on the IJsselmeer. No, it’s not windy at all,
just a little bit. But that’s what the sun is for. Today I drive
to the northeast polder, I have to cross this bridge here. I’ll be curious,
what it looks like up there. * Music * The northern polders
is the older of the two. He was killed in the middle of World War II.
pumped dry. My destination there: Urk. The place used to be
a North Sea island. Then came the big dike, and the village
became an island in the IJsselmeer. The residents are
still a race in its own right. The island structure can be seen
the old town centre from the air today. Hello, good morning.
– Hey. Hey. Hey. That must be Jan.
– This is Jan. I’m Andrea.
– Good morning, welcome to Urk. Thank you. I’ll take care of it. Urk they say?
– To Urk, yes. In polder land, in new territory, they say.
“in”: in Lelystad, in Almere. But we say Urk. We were an island, and that’s why
we’re still on Urk. Island feeling today?
– That’s still there. What is this
for a fantastic costume? This is the costume of Urk. You put these on just for us?
– Especially for you. Thank you. Especially for you. How nice the buttons are.
– They’re gold buttons. Real gold?
– Yeah, it’s from my grandfather. They’re also…
– Oh, great. They’re more than 100 years old. Is that all
a little flat. Weary of work,
from the nets. Yeah, show me Urk.
– Okay, that’s what we want to do. This way?
– Yes, we’re going to go this… * Music * Jan was a fisherman for 20 years.
and 30 years as harbour master. The roots of his family can be
back to the 17th century. He leads me
into the old Urk alleyways, the “Ginkies”, as they say here. It’s a steep climb, just so you know.
one protection from the roaring North Sea. The people of Urk love their traditions
and show it too. That includes,
that men wear earrings, she’s already
as little children. Even today
that happens sometimes. But before
those earrings made sense, to identify the men,
when they died at sea. * Music * When Urk was still an island, the primeval people lived in constant fear
from the forces of the sea. The isle has been repeatedly
threatened by storm surges. Also the surrounding coastal areas
were in danger. Thousands drowned in the floods. The Dutch therefore decided that
access to the North Sea close down
and built a dyke. It was closed in 1932. From the arm of the North Sea,
the Zuidersee, slowly became the IJsselmeer. The island of Urk
got connected to the mainland. Another small step,
then we’ll be upstairs. Wow. Wow. Now we’re standing.
28 meters above sea level. Have quite a view
about the old village. And here around the corner
we’re about to see new territory. Is it true that you’ve been
your own people, your own country? Own land, yes. We are true primeval men. We’re Dutch,
we are Urker. We’re fishermen. The whole fishery
is in our blood. 100 years ago in the Zuidersee, there were 3,000 ships.
active in fishing. Today in the IJsselmeer and Markermeer
there are still 40 ships active. Only Urk
has remained a fishing ground. You’re
in the fishing business. But today they are mainly trading,
with what’s going on in the North Sea, but also elsewhere in the world.
is fished. Today many fish are
come in from auctions. They’re being processed today.
Tonight, most of it goes out. between 5 a.m. and 8 a.m.
to different countries in Europe. In this factory alone.
25,000 tonnes of fish a year. Urk competes in some varieties
with the largest transshipment centres all over Europe, Jan says. It’s hard to believe. Now
the tension from the auction. It’s very quiet. Here are the prices of the eels. Fishmongers sit here
next to restaurant owners. The auction takes place every day. * Music * They’re crabs,
they’re going to Hong Kong. They’re going to Hong Kong? That’s 100 euros a kilo.
– That much? Because you have such good crabs?
– Yeah, it’s not a fish. Have a nice trip.
– That’s very expensive. It’s the eels.
– Yes, it is. They’ve got power, right?
– Yeah, lots of power. You have to…
– I need more pressure, right? No, just the fingers like that. (laughs) I’m sorry. I’m sorry. I’m sorry. A snake. In the harbour Jan still has
a secret tip for me. There are sometimes
fresh smoked salmon, but also other fish, in one
very unconventional operation. Hi, do you have anything else for us? We were chatting about Urk.
now appetite for fried fish. You got anything else? You want me to go here?
– No, I’m not. There?
– There. Thank you, I’m Andrea.
– Hello, Andrea. Just by hand?
– Yeah, we do this traditionally. Thank you so much. At “Botterschuur”.
the men of Urk meet, to talk and the old craft
of boat building. They prepare
fish on a regular basis, and they sell it
also to tourists. And a cup of coffee with it. Fish always have to swim. Now we’re going to chocolate country,
this place used to be an island, too. Schokland is today
a special place. On the street sign I discover the symbol of the World Heritage Site
of the United Nations. The award
got the museum, because you enter a place where
a 10,000 year battle. of man
against the water. From the former village
there’s not much left. In 1859 Schokland was abandoned,
because it was flooded over and over again. In the end, it was the poorest community.
of the Netherlands. Look, apparently there used to be
Mammoths, so much earlier. There used to be a lot of people here.
times country, 12,000 years ago. After the Ice Age.
sea level at around 50 m. Chocolate land became an island. Just like Urk. That’s crazy,
you can see it again. In 1916, the water was so high, 1825 so high. Can’t imagine. It looks so nice today. The storm surges have given the residents
I’ve really had a hard time here. You had to leave. But now man has become
the country back. This is all new land here. The Chocolate Lands
have never returned. Instead, the decision was made
to set up a memorial here, so that you can
on the power of water and the battle of the Dutch
with the floods. Here I stand now, here you can
I’d like to think of it as great, before me lies the island of Schokland. I’m surrounded by the sea, that with the wind that was
I’m sure they used to be like that. Now I have a date.
with a woman, that is known
for their special flowers. But it’s not about tulips. I drive on the polder
further north to the small village of Rutten. The memorial
impressed me. It’s unbelievable that there were only
80 years ago. Now it’s agriculture.
and generates electricity. The Dutch
have on the northeast polder one of the largest wind farms in the world
of the country. * Music * Marianne Joosten
leads me through her show garden, and she invites me to try it out. Because daylilies can be
actually eat, too. It’s delicious.
– Yeah, right? It tastes a little bit
for kohlrabi, could that be? I don’t know, I don’t have a lot of time.
I ate so much kohlrabi. Can you eat all the lilies?
– Yes, that’s a very small one. You can eat all the daylilies.
– All daylilies. The flowers are harvested by Marianne
for dinner, today
in her garden. You can eat it like that. All the way in? Attention. A little like salad. Tastes different than it’s good? A little nuttier. It’s best to eat them steamed,
Marianne says. Over 1,000 varieties
she has collected in the meantime and partly bred by myself. Who visits their nursery, finds a huge selection
of daylily onions. You can easily
in your own garden. Marianne has her company
since 1988. She’s on the northeast pole.
born and raised. Her parents were farmers, too. and with the first
on this newly created land. My parents
were only allowed to come here, because it meets the social requirements
fulfilled. After all, they were supposed to help,
to build the polder. People were passing by,
who looked into our cupboards and controlled it,
if everything was nice and tidy. Is it tidy to be?
– Yeah, if you’re tidy. Otherwise, you’d be
is not selected. That was a pretty tough test. Many farmers
interested in a business, but you had to apply. You qualified? Your family was good enough
for the northeast polder.
– Yes, it is. The daylily food
are mostly at her house. But we have
I’m lucky with the weather today. Alstublieft. Daylily pesto,
that sounds so charming. Yeah, half.
is made with daylilies. * Music * Flevoland by the way offers the
largest uninterrupted trade lane for boats within the Netherlands. Today I drive on the
Northeast polder to Kraggenburg. There it shall
a special holiday oasis. The north-east polder is
not a classic holiday area. But where there’s water,
there are also beaches and other places to relax. * Music * Flat country, dead straight roads,
that’s what a young polder looks like. And every once in a while land art,
Landscape art. That’s what they do so well.
the Dutch. * Music * Residents here
sometimes coffee, by the way. Payment is a matter of trust,
very sympathetic. Now I’m looking forward to a
wild garden, the Wildest Tuin. I’m at the Netl theme park.
arrived, you can safely call him a
A secret tip for families. The locals
have been celebrating here for a long time Weddings and other family celebrations. You can rent houses, camp.
or just let your soul dangle. All newly created,
even the meter-high dunes. On the polder
everything is artificially created. Hello, I’m Andrea. Welcome, sir,
Bob Crebas. Bob Crebas shows me
his bathing lake with playground. The park is
the size of 90 soccer fields. Bob’s got the area
bought together with his family and then his vision of a
nature adventure garden. That’s nice. We are inspired
of the Méditerranée. It’s dreamlike. Mostly 2 kinds of lavender. One goes better than the other. All full of bees. Bob is also on the Northeast Polder
born the son of a farmer. Later he was unemployed,
then environmental activist. Today he’s a multimillionaire. He’s got his money
with an online platform. When he was
started building his park, many a thing came out of the
the past with the daylight. We had here
found a ship in the ground. The sign says: Here the remains
of an old cog. The staff with the red boat
on top marks the place, 600 years ago.
has gone down. The ship is there. That’s still there?
– That’s still there. Now there’s
Orchids on the ship. You see, all orchids. In Flevoland, Bob tells me.
they found 435 sunken ships, the oldest from the year 1200. They are always
with a stake like that. * Music * There is also a small
Apartment of a ship container. That’s cool.
– Yes, it is. With a room?
– Yes, for two people. Cool, that’s all you need. Cosy. Next door is a nature camping site. Here, crops and herbs are grown
planted, that the campers are allowed to harvest. Every place has
his little grill oven, made from recycled
gas cylinders was manufactured. * Music * I was inspired by
the Blue Zones. These are territories in the world, in which people
more than 100 years old. I was wondering,
what can we do, so that the people in the
the Netherlands will grow that old? How can we do this? What is clear is that people should
more exercise and a healthier diet, have good accommodation
and less stress. But the most important thing is,
that people live together, have meaning for each other. Get up in the morning and have goals,
but not just for yourself. This is the most important factor,
to live to be 100 years old. Would you like to be 100?
– Yeah, yeah, 120. * Music * We’ll drive a few miles
across the country, where Bob owns another estate. Ampyx flight operation. That sounds very exciting.
– That’s right, I did. On the premises just found
a technical experiment took place. With a special
designed glider pilot energy is to be generated. That’s got power.
– Yes, a lot of power. How steep that is, high. The glider pilot
is hanging from a rope. The stronger the wind blows,
the more the plane pulls, and with this power of the wind.
electricity is generated. Let me ask you something,
may I ask a question? Can a plane like that really be
similarly energy-efficient, like a windmill?
– Yes, it can. Relationship? With the blade of a wind turbine
we can take the plane, so with a plane this big.
like the blade of a wind turbine, we can use the same current
like the same wind turbine. We save ourselves a lot of money the other 2 leaves,
the mast and the big foundation. In eight years.
the technology was developed. Your Vision, Flight Wind Energy
as an alternative to the classic wind power, is to be used in the
be ready for the market in the next few years. The next tests
the engineers develop together with a
large German energy group. Bob supports the project by
it provides space for the engineers. Sustainability is close to his heart. His previous project, textiles.
from nettles, didn’t work out, I’m afraid. Yeah, stinging nettle fashion. He lost 8 million euros. The textiles didn’t sell,
the operation has been stopped. And here’s the studio.
– It’s a professional studio. Another one of Bob’s passions:
the music. And this
is the record of our band: Riders of the Universe. From your band?
– Ja, Riders of the Universe. Riders of the Universe,
is that rock? We call it Prockrock. That’s a little classic,
Organ, guitars. A little Pink Floyd, Genesis. And what are you playing?
– Bass guitar and bouzouki. Then you’re gonna have to
I want you to play something now, please. Yeah, we can do that if you want.
– Yes, please. We make a good sound. You sing, I play. Or are you playing?
– No, no, no, no, no, no, no.
I can’t play. “La Bamba”?
– “Para bailar La Bamba”?
– Yes, it is. How did you come up with this song? In the middle of Holland. ? Para bailar La Bamba
Para bailar La Bamba. Se necesita una poca de gracia,
una poca de gracia. Para mi, para ti,
ay arriba, ay arriba. Ay arriba arriba por ti seré,
Por ti seré, por ti seré. Bailar La Bamba, bailar La Bamba,
bailar La Bamba. ? Now I’m standing here.
in the middle of the Netherlands and sing a Spanish song, why? It’s for you. Crazy, thank you.
– Here you go. * Music * I have something else, thank you very much.
– Thank you, sir. A souvenir from Holland,
from Flevoland, stinging nettle. That’s the nettle stuff?
– Yes, it is. Oh, it’s nice and soft.
– Yes, it is. I don’t know what that’s called. A jacket, a cape, a dress.
– Yeah, something like that. Thank you so much.
– Thank you and have a nice trip. We wish you continued success.
– Goodbye. Goodbye. Goodbye. Goodbye. * Music * Bob told me,
Waterloopbos, only 6 km away, is a magical place. That’s where I want to go. After that a little bit more
continue to the village Blokzijl. * Music * What’s so natural here
and enchanted comes along, is a test area of Dutch
Hydraulic engineers. These are port facilities, dams,
River courses and coastal strips, the true to scale
have been reduced in size. With these systems
hydraulic engineering problems from all over the world
and finally solved. Since 1951 there has been
this hydraulic engineering laboratory in the open air. The ports
from Rotterdam, Istanbul and Bangkok can be found here. Also Dutch protection systems
against floods and storm surges were tested here in small format. * Music * With these wave machines
you imitate the power of the sea, to get data for the construction
from dams and harbours. Then in the 1990s.
Enough with this system. have computers
I’ve made the work redundant. * Music * Who explores Flevoland, that should
every now and then down from the polder and up to the old mainland. After 7 km I reach Blokzijl,
a romantic little town, that bloomed in the 17th century. * Music * The harbour in the middle of the city
is a listed building. At the lock
there’s a lot of activity. For whoever has the waterway network
around Flevoland and the IJsselmeer,
is coming by here. * Music * The atmosphere in the harbour
wasn’t always so quiet. When the place
was still in the wild North Sea, he was
often threatened by storm surges. Ever since the Polder came into existence,
peace reigns. * Music * Almere is the seventh largest city in the world
the Netherlands and is located in the south of Flevoland,
only 30 km from Amsterdam. * Music * Well, he’s gotta be around here somewhere,
– Here I am. It’s nice to meet you,
I’m Andrea. I’m Jan Frans, hello.
– Hello, there. It’s nice to meet you. I’m happy,
to show you the city. Is it your town?
– It’s our town. You helped build these. Together with 80 other designers
and landscape architects. You have to introduce yourself,
there was nothing here. We called it
a paradise for planners. In the beginning, 50 years ago,
when there was water, one has first
this dike here. Then you started,
to pump the land dry. The water was 4 meters high. You pumped everything out. The city is today about 4 m
below sea level. Okay. (laughs) When I think about it,
I’m building a town. How was this town going to be? Yes, the visions for this city
was developed in the ’70s. There were discussions at the time.
about the oil shortage. That’s why they tried here,
to reduce car traffic and public transport
to give more space, including to cyclists. People should get on their bikes.
instead of driving a car. That’s what they thought back then. It all had a big impact.
on the draft of Almere. Show me the city.
– Okay. (laughs) Almere:
a modern city according to plan. The residential towers in front of us
symbolize the city gate. Every quarter here
is designed differently. In the Rainbow Quarter
all the houses are colorful. It’s very popular. Also the mayor of Almere
lives here. * Music * In the dune district
you’ve piled up a lot of sand, Sea buckthorn and others
typical plants have been planted. Everything is supposed to be the same here.
like on a natural coast. The emergence of this great lake
in the middle of town is curious. At first everything was pumped dry. Then the planners lacked a large
Waters for leisure activities. So you have
pumped water back into it. Therefore the lake is called today
Weerwater, Wiederwasser. * Music * We are
arrived downtown, where Jan
into his living room, as he did the award-winning,
the city library. Visitors can read, surf the net free of charge,
Playing the piano and much more. Every third citizen of Almere
is a member here. * Music * Oh, that’s a surprise.
– Yes, it is. I didn’t think so,
that it’s so beautiful up here. We are
right in the middle of Almere. We stand on the roof terrace
of a big department store. What a cool idea. On the roofs of the business center
they’ve set up a residential area and called it the Jewel Quarter,
with paths and gardens. Jan tells me that the apartments
aren’t that expensive, but very much in demand. I like it here, it’s very quiet,
a beautiful place. Very convenient to go shopping. There’s no traffic up here. The kids can play,
as they please. Yeah, we like it. My parents live here
for 30 years. You are one of the first
Inhabitants of Almere. That’s how I knew the city. Our apartment
we discovered on the Internet. Our old one was much more expensive. It was important to me,
to have a little garden. My wife wanted
live near shops. That’s why we’ve
decided to do this. * Music * In Almere you could
some more innovative, than in old, grown cities.
is possible. Like the garbage disposal. Through gigantic pipes a part of the
of the waste is extracted underground, over 3,000 tons per year. You even separate. Sometimes you suck public garbage
out of town, then waste paper. It’s pretty unique here. In the Netherlands there are so far
only two systems like this. Basically, it’s not complicated,
but an effective means, to make the city a better place to live. The inhabitants notice
not even any of it. I would like to introduce
I’d like to give you something personal.
– Mmm. It’s a little booklet, which in 4 seconds
40 years of city history. A flip book.
– Yes, it is. I’ve lived here for about 10 years. I live not far from here,
and I have to say, I enjoy it. I have
another present for you. It’s an information booklet.
about all the buildings downtown. A walk through the city. Cool, thank you. Come in the backpack, a beautiful
Architectural walk through Almere. Thank you, Jan.
– Yes, it is. * Music * In the port of Lelystad I visit
today the Museum Neuland, which tells the story of Flevoland
told. You can do a lot of things here. a lot about hydraulic engineering
in the Netherlands. Children can, for example, discover,
how a sluice works, waves are created and also otherwise
explore the physics of water. * Music * There’s a cinema next door, where a film
about Cornelis Lely. The politician, hydraulic engineer.
and later ministers did, which in the 19th century
developed feasible plans for the first time, to tame the wild North Sea. From him has the capital
Flevolands her name: Lelystad. In 1918 it was time. Lely brought the appropriate
law through Parliament. The largest polarity reversal project
of all time could start. The last thing that came into being
the southern Flevolian polder. He is, I learn here, the biggest island,
that humans have ever created. In May 1968 everything was ready. Even today on the polder
I pumped it all the time, to keep the country dry. The Blocq van Kuffeler pumping station
is one of 7 stations on Flevoland and one of the largest
pumping stations in the world. The strongest machines create
850,000 litres of water per minute. A single technician is enough,
to monitor the area. De Blocq van Kuffeler
was built in 1962. Back then, the pumping station
on an artificial dam. The southern part of Flevoland
was still underwater. 1967 they started the polder
to pump it dry. After 7 months the country was dry. The engineer on duty checks
the height of the water on a regular basis. Because there’s always something new coming
from the rivers. That’s how you decide,
how the pumps are adjusted. Today the level is
at 6.10 m below sea level. Of course, something can always happen. You can’t
I want you to be ready for anything. But the dikes
are under strict surveillance. They’re also well constructed,
they’re basic defences. They are carefully maintained
and, if necessary, also repaired. I’m not afraid of you,
that something might go wrong. My place of work is fantastic. Originally, I’ve come
from a big city. Now I’m working as an engineer.
in a green area. That’s great. That’s great. I see a lot of animals here,
e.g. kingfishers and also foxes. There’s no such thing in town. I can stand it here. Good evening, everyone. Welcome to Bibersafari
here in Almeerderhout. My name is Rob,
Forester in Almeerderhout, and I’m taking you with me tonight. All right, let’s go,
off into the wild nature again. This time with the canoe. I’m in a small forest.
at Almere. * Music * We’re going on a canal, who has taken it out of the polders
drains off pumped water. Such channels may be
can also be used with private boats. On the left side,
you can see the beaver burrow. Here?
– Yes. That’s the beaver castle. This is one of those houses? How many rooms does it have?
– Three rooms. Three-room apartment. Are there any young beavers in there? I think so, but know exactly
it won’t be until August, when the beavers come out. Beavers are considered the largest rodents
Europe is particularly protected. 4 beaver families are supposed to be
I find out. Then we discover
another beaver castle. The entrances
are always under water. How are the animals
what, you came here? It’s new land. Yeah, that’s a funny story. We introduced the beaver in 1988. In the National Park de Biesbosch. They were the first beavers in 150 years.
years in the Netherlands.
– Okay. (laughs) We have them
from East Germany, more precisely, from the Elbe. There’s the moon already. But no beaver. But then we see
but another one. * Music * The next day
I drive along Lake Veluwe and then off the polder.
to the old Hanseatic city of Kampen. This monument commemorates
to the chocolate countries, which in the 19th century
had to leave their island. Almost everyone was here
in Kampen. To this day they live
in the city. In the harbour of Kampen lies
this medieval ship, a “cog”,
more specifically, it’s a replica. Cogs were the first seaworthy
Cargo ships of the Middle Ages. The Hanseatic City has given you
to owe their wealth. This one
sailed the seas around 1340. * Bells ringing * Kampen has a
of the best preserved old towns of the Netherlands. 550 houses, gates and towers
are under a preservation order. On a stroll through the old town
with their many individual business discovered
you always have coats of arms and crowns. They refer to the mighty
Emperor Karl V, the Kampen in the 16th century the title “free imperial
Hanseatic City”. At that time Kampen was
more important than Amsterdam. I’m on my way.
to the old town hall, where the municipal museum
is accommodated. Here you can
the history of the town of Kampen, their religion and
to study wealth through trade. One should especially look at the old
I’d like to take a look in the courtroom. City administration for centuries
I’m sorry he didn’t do the right thing. * Music * In the top of the impressive fireplace
you can see the figure of Justitia,
A symbol of justice. The lawyers,
that already existed here back then, sat apart
by the aldermen and councils. They also held 400 years ago
I’ve already made a plea. Kampen wasn’t just rich,
but also progressive. Also fans of art nouveau architecture
get their money’s worth in Kampen. Gerhardus Berend Broekema
began before the turn of the century with this design language
and left his mark on Kampen like no other. Particularly beautiful facades
can be found at the butter market. Kampen was also famous for
his cloth makers and bell founders. Since the 19th century.
the city bag of another Handicrafts that are of great importance for the Netherlands
seems rather unusual. It smells like tobacco in here already. And I think I’m in Cuba. We are in the
at the De Olifant cigar factory, founded in 1883. * Music * Mm-hmm. Maybe I should
Become a cigar smoker. 4 million magnificent glowing stalks
are produced here every year. 1 million thereof
for sale in Germany. Maike, one of the company owners,
shows me how to do it. These leaves
are the most valuable, aren’t they? Yeah, that’s right. It’s like fabric, so solid. Like silk, soft as silk. The beauty of these dark
Leaves, that’s from Brazil. These bright leaves
are from Sumatra. These are very precious leaves. I think,
they’re more expensive than 1 kg of silver. When you buy silver, you pay for it.
than when you buy tobacco. This one,
that’s the right half, we can roll three cigars. It’s unbelievable,
how strong tobacco is. So stable.
– I can’t believe this. * Music * Everything is glued together
with gum arabic, a natural
and tasteless resin. Do I take it?
– Yes, it is. Now it’s time to take the pictures. You do?
– Yes, very good. Too wide?
– No, perfect. What’s it called in German?
– Yes, it is. Cigar rolls has Maike
from an early age. The factory is on 4th floor.
Family owned generation. It only takes 10,000 hours of practice,
then it’s totally easy. The leaves are laid
by hand in machines, that first cut and then roll. The oldest in the company
dates back to 1888. By the way, it was
a manufacturer from Bremen, that the tobacco industry
to Kampen. The cigars ripen
for about 6 weeks and then become
packed in cedarwood boxes. Do you smoke cigars?
– Yes, it is. You’ll probably have to buy cigars.
smoking from childhood? I prefer it,
Smoking cigars than rolling them. Would you like to smoke with me?
– Sure, I’d love to. I got the first cigar.
in Cuba. This would be my second one.
– That’s nice. Now it’s gonna be snapped. Please, please.
– Thank you. I’ll take care of it. Then we prepare
the smoke moment. I’ll take the cigar. And warm that up,
that’s getting a little warm in here. Now, please smoke that cigar. Please pull the cigar. Looks cool. Puff them, will you?
Don’t inhale, will you? Nah, you puff them. Otherwise, I’ll be right here.
– I’ll say. The taste goes through the mouth
and through the nose. * Music * Of course I’ll take a package
Cigars for your backpack. * Music * Let’s see if they know here,
how I could get in there. In the last
still preserved mill of Kampens. It’s actually the bell. Hello.
– Good morning. Do you speak German?
– I speak German, yes. I’ve seen this beautiful mill.
and wanted to ask if you knew if I can visit them?
– Yes, I have a key. With you?
– Yes, I can. That’s what it is,
where the grains are ground. Is grinding still being done here?
– Here we still grind, yes. It’s still in operation. It’s still in operation. In three places.
you can grind here. You can grind there, there and here. It’s a stone.
– A millstone. They come from the Eifel.
– Well, well. If it’s not sharp enough,
it’ll be made sharper. That’s how you do it.
– Then you dig into the grooves. It means “billen” in Dutch,
like this. The butt is called “billen”?
– In Holland, it’s called billen. And this, too. How do you know all this? My father-in-law was a miller. Here?
– In this mill. Ten years ago he was a miller. I.e. you have
married the miller’s son.
– Yes, it is. That’s nice. My father-in-law
built this house. He was a miller first,
then he built the house. The flour is sold?
– This will be sold on Saturday. And we bake
our own bread, too. There you go.
– That’s nice. Good, isn’t it?
– Yeah, great, perfect. Feet in the water
and then at a spinning mill. That’s typical Dutch.
– I’ll say. * Music * Now I’m driving
past Horsterwold to the south. Because I’d like
I’m going to look at Hilversum today, a beautiful
Contrast to Kampen. * Music * 2 motorways lead to Hilversum. The name sounds in many people’s ears,
because you know Radio Hilversum. Until the beginning of the 19th century.
this was just a farming village. The rise to the media city
of the Netherlands began in the 20th century. Where
the media center is located, is the family de Mol
a street dedicated to the Hilversum is inextricably linked with the siblings
John and Linda de Mol. There’s Linda. There’s John de Mol, the man who bought the company.
Endemol helped build. The second largest
television production company in the world: “Big Brother,
“Only love matters.” “Dream wedding,” “Who’s gonna be
Millionaire”, everything from Endemol. At the Institute for Sound and Image
there’s a radio museum. In the basements there are
gigantic archives for films, Radio productions and
the corresponding media technology. The archives, where e.g.
those old tube radios, can be booked in advance
on a guided tour. On these devices.
to read yet: Radio Hilversum. Because they were looking for the stations.
for the names of the radio stations. The dutch were with their
Broadcasting operations ahead of us. They started on the first.
in 1919. We’ve got the
actually preceded the BBC. That was quite a thing. Because we have
started half a year before that. That’s quite a memory.
for many here. The Collection
of the old television cameras shows almost without gaps
the development of technology. In this room, anyone can
in the institute’s archives. Saved are
the radio and television productions public-law
Dutch radio. In the museum you can read the history
of broadcasting in the Netherlands get to know each other interactively. There she is, Linda. I mean,
she’s just a role model. We girls all had a Barbie,
and there was really Linda. Everybody wanted to look like her. In the Netherlands, Linda de Mol
a star and still active. In Germany it is mainly through the television programme
“Dream Wedding” became famous. This format was also available
in the Netherlands. Great, huh? That was the moment.
the first time I saw that dress. He’s swallowing. How awesome, I get goose bumps. It was produced
this show here in Hilversum. The Marriage
often took place at City Hall. The town hall is a magnet for visitors,
not just for wedding couples. Especially architectural
this building is interesting. The architect Willem Marinus Dudok it has beginning
of the 1930s. It looks much more modern,
was way ahead of his time back then. Here are then
the bridal couples came in? Yeah, this is where they came in,
up the stairs here. With the big dress. Oh, thank you. And the excitement. I hover the stairs
together with Johan Niekerk, the registrar, who at the time
on TV married couples. And the corner with the big dress.
– And the flowers. Here we go. The room’s here,
de Trouwkamer of Hilversum. I hope you say yes. Has anyone said no yet?
– No, I’m not. Oh, great.
– And then there’s Linda de Mol. We sit here. And the two Witte duives that fly. I’ll say,
there were always pigeons flying. Then the question was asked
from the registry office. And then maybe we’ll say, yeah. How was the mood?
at this TV wedding? It was a real wedding.
but also a TV show. It’s private too. Of course, I was a little nervous. There were a lot of strange people,
who looked at you. But when it started,
the bride and groom in front of you,
you weren’t nervous anymore. You’re doing the best you can,
to give them something beautiful. Although it was a show,
it was always very romantic. Yeah, it was something special.
and to join in amusingly. * Music * Tradition, history, then
again supermodern ambience, these contrasts can be seen in the
Netherlands over and over again. * Music * My last day. I’m going back to
Oostvaardersplassen returned, where my journey began, in the largest natural wetland biotope
of the Netherlands. * Music * But I didn’t come,
to go for a walk, but I’m with 2 professional
I’ve arranged to meet some nature filmmakers. * Music * Michael and Ana Luísa
gave me camouflage clothes, so that I
I will not scare away the animals. You want
I’d like to make a movie about foxes. How difficult it is,
Filming foxes? It’s not that simple,
what it looks like. It takes a lot of patience. You need to know where they are,
and expect it, that in the end.
aren’t there after all. This is a good place
for the tent, I think. Is that the tent?
– That’s the tent, yeah. I think we should put the tent
and put them here in front of the tree. We’ll be less visible. And at the same time we have
a good view of the area, in which the foxes are active. * Music * When and why did you
determined to film foxes? It was actually her idea.
– Yeah? Yeah. I’ve already been to our
New Wildlife movie here, over 2.5 years in total,
2011 to 2013. The most interesting animal
was the fox. That’s why Ana
convinced me to come back and a film
to just turn over the fox. Especially because in the movie.
“The New Wild” scene, where a fox hunts,
in the middle of the day. This scene is one of the greatest
Scenes in the movie at all. This nature documentary film
was established in the Netherlands to a
of the greatest cinema successes of 2014. * Music * It’s really working. It’s warmer here now. In Oostvaardersplassen
live about 50 to 60 foxes. But whether or not
to see you? And over there
are there really foxholes? Yes, there are some in this area.
One is… Over there?
– Over there. Another one on the right. But we’re concentrating
on the one before us. And wow, actually,
a very young animal. * Music * When I’m sitting here in this tent.
or drive around the park, it’s like you’re
BBC television. It’s bizarre.
and it fascinates me. We are here
below sea level. We’re looking at a nature reserve, where it looks like
as in the Serengeti. There’s room for all the animals. I love it. I love it,
to observe and film them. I was a man of my own from the beginning.
I’m very excited about this place. We travel so much and try to get the same animals
that there are here, too. But you can’t see them. When I was
I came here for the first time, I have
so many beautiful animals. They all look so healthy.
and just great. In Portugal, in my home country,
I haven’t seen anything like it. * Music * Thank you for coming with me.
could go to your shoot. That was a special experience.
for me. Thank you. They say God created the world,
but the Dutch Holland. Is it true? Yes. That’s true, especially when you’re
to take a look at the area, we’ve just been in. I wish you good luck.
for your projects, many foxes. Yes, I hope so. Thanks for staying with us. And thank you for watching. That was an exciting show,
whether you’re an engineer or not, nature lovers
or just philanthropist. Flevoland is worth a visit. We’ve collected all that,
you can win, when you write to us,
what’s in the backpack. We got something, too.
– Great. The movie that Michael was filming.
has about the nature reserve here, great shots,
is coming in, too. Thank you so much.
– Thank you. You, too, until next time.
Thanks for watching. Ciao to “Beautiful.” Copyright WDR 2019